ELMT 101: Let's Talk About the Science Behind "Brightening" Skincare
by Gina Myung on Feb 10, 2022
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What is "Brightening" Skincare?
At its core, human skin color is determined by a number of natural factors, melanin being the most important. Depending on the increased or decreased presence of melanin in our skin, we’re able to see visible changes in our complexion. In short, decreased melanin production leads to a brighter complexion. When it comes to "brightening" and "illuminating" skincare products, we can expect them to help create a more healthy looking, even toned complexion rather than creating a drastic change in skin tone. Think of MLBB but for your skin. If you're struggling with post acne hyperpigmentation or dullness due to stress, lack of sleep or environmental stressors, brightening products may be your missing element.Test Protocol
Now getting into testing protocol, the test was conducted at P&K Research Center in Seoul, according to Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) standards. The elmt Skin Illuminating Solution was diluted with a culture medium to a concentration of 15%, and used to study the intracellular and extracellular melanin production in B16-F1 melanoma cells. What are B16-F1 cells you ask? A mouse-derived melanoma cell, a type of cell that gives the skin its tan or brown color. This particular cell culture was selected based on the effective test data from the MFDS “Guidelines for Validation of Functional Cosmetics Helping Whitening of Skin”. The B16-F1 cell culture was incubated at 37℃ in a 24-well plate, and used to measure and quantify intracellular and extracellular melanin production after every 3-4 days of subculture.Measurement of Results
Melanin images were taken with a HYPERISON2000 IR-Microscope (Bruker Corp, Germany) in seven randomly selected areas and compared to a positive control group, the same culture of cells that were treated with an α-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and a negative control group, the same culture of cells that were treated with 500uM Niacinamide. It was confirmed that the melanin amount was increased by an α-MSH treatment in the B16-F1 melanoma cell (see “Positive Control Group”), and it was confirmed that melanin production decreased inside and outside of the cell when treated with the elmt Skin Illuminating Solution (see “Test Group”).
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